Stage 8. Alvaiazere to Alvorge - 25kms, cloudy and humid

Today has been a gentler day and we have decided to stop earlier in the small village of Alvorge in order to catch up with ourselves after a succession of long stages, where life (and walking) can become a bit of a blur!

Our plan is to rest this afternoon and then to rise early for the long and more gruelling stretch into Coimbra. We'll have two rest days in Coimbra. Ilja will take one rest day and then catch it up by doing three shorter stages in two days on the way to Porto (where he leaves the caminho until next time). Neil and Sarah will join Geoff and Annemarie in Coimbra and together they will walk on to Santiago.

Today Neil experimented with selfies so we could get the three of us in one photo!

To begin, we want to thank so many family, friends and new friends for your messages. It is lovely to feel that others are appreciating our journey vicariously and are so palpably with us in spirit. Be assured we are buoyed by your words and support, even if there is limited opportunity to reply.

Secondly, as many have inquired, we want to update you on our health situation. Thankfully, Neil's calves are improving, the splotchy red bits are much less inflamed (I think it might have been mostly sun BURN) and the swelling is slowly reducing. Sarah's feet are tender but holding up pretty well given the heat and huge distances we have been walking. Ilja is looking fit and well. He says he is able to walk endlessly. (Editor's note: yeah right, as long as he keeps up his three iboprofen per day!!)

It has been such a beautiful and rejuvenating walk today. It rained overnight, and we've had a few very light misty showers to cool us as we've walked. But no need for rain coats - just pleasantly cool and damp along the gorgeous forested and rural lanes of today's stage. The path was characterised by miles of dry stone walls, sometimes enclosing small orchards or vegetable gardens, sometimes bordering seemingly long abandoned fields overtaken by weeds and scrubby vegetation.

We were accompanied out of one village by a small cat, that looked like it would happily have joined us for the whole trip had we not sent him home.

One of the striking features of our walk so far has been the number of old abandoned houses and factories. In Lisbon and some of the rural manor houses, or quintas, it struck us as fading glory but even in the villages, many humble cottages and farm buildings are uninhabited and falling down. 

We're not sure what all this about. Perhaps partly it's to do with depopulation, or economic hardship though we've not seen much evidence of homelessness or begging. And it's not all like this - there is renewal. However, the overall picture is of a country that seems to be adjusting to a non-growth economy - and the abandoned houses are almost like a social version of memento mori (where people live with visible reminders of their own and their society's mortality). In that sense, paradoxically, it is a relief from the pressure to relentless improvement. Maybe more nations need to come to terms with the fact that continuous economic growth is not sustainable. Whatever, we appreciate the simple contentment that radiates in this country.

Today, we have also enjoyed some humorous interactions with the locals. As we were walking through Ansiao, we passed a group of men chatting together. One of them was standing next to his car. As we walked past, obvious pilgrims, he opened his door and beckoned for us to get in. Sarah, responded by beginning to clamber aboard. Everyone laughed. It was a delightful connection.

Neil and Ilja convinced her to keep walking, and so we did, across the river

and past the football stadium 

Neil occasionally clearing the way with his latest staff, gathered from one of the many stands of eucalypt

and pumping water for our refreshment.

Though the pilgrim ways to Santiago and Fatima originally followed the same route, they have now diverged, resulting in some interesting signage. The Fatima arrows are blue; ours are yellow.

We're not sure what happened with this one ... pointing us down under perhaps??

Today, for whatever reason we have been in something of a haiku frenzy (Merilyn, I think this almost brings us up to date!). The deep one is written by Sarah, the others by yours truly.

On days like today

It's a true privilege 

To be a pilgrim

Figs, melons, olives

Capsicum, tomato

Grape, quince. Fiesta!

Ev'n the Brussel sprout

Much maligned by many

Is abundant here.

Moss covered walls of

grey stone tumble across

hills, unkempt and free.      (This would be Sarah's, see what I mean - deep!!)

We sign off from our peaceful hill top village, grateful for another wonderful day on the road.

Bom caminho,

Neil, Sarah and Ilha