Thursday 15 September 2016

Stage 7. Tomar to Alvaiazere - 34kms, warm and sunny.

Thanks to Ilja, we are developing a following for our blog in the Czech Republic, so we begin by welcoming our new Czech readers! It is lovely to have you join us.

Here's a word from Ilja specially for you: ZDravim vsechny, kdo to sleduji, Sarku, Karla, Zdenu a Petra a dalsi. Ilja.

We began a glorious day with a woodland track along a lovely misty river and later enjoyed walking along rural lanes, past tiny hamlets. The final stretch on cobbled lanes was challenging to the feet, but overall it was a beautiful glimpse of old rural Portugal.


We left Tomar in the early morning light, catching a final view of the Templar complex that overlooks the town.


The path led along a river from which mist rose as we passed by, and the trees dripped from overnight rain.



An extraordinary mediaeval bridge came next, with what looked like small standing stones along its length.



It was a day of olive groves, cork trees, figs and domestic animals - smells of farm yards and wild salvia.





This rather fiersome billy goat reminded us of Geoff's giant sheep on the Camino via de la Plata!!!



It was hillier that we've been accustomed to. This was our steepest descent so far.


And what goes down, must come up again!


Up and on we went.




Three chairs in a cool corner for three weary pilgrims. An inviting place to stop, though the cafe itself seemed closed.


Ilja is powering on strongly.


It was another day of being helped by locals. This kind man pointed out the path that took us off a dangerous section of road where there was no verge.


Despite his help, we managed to miss a poorly signed turn not too much later. The guide book map wasn't terribly informative, but Neil navigated us back via a lovely forest path, and we returned to the main road not too far from where we were meant to be. Other than this, the way marking has been excellent since Lisbon. 


We passed the usual quota of churches, and this interesting chapel in a tiny lane - not quite sure if it is a church, a synagogue or both... Whatever it was it has seen better days!!


And some more domestic scenes. Here's one for your door collection Sue.




And Geoff, these are for you.



And finally, we were in the last stretch to Alvaiazere ...


The albergue was fully booked thanks to 15 polish cyclists who happened to have got there an hour earlier but Carlos, the enthusiastic and welcoming owner, has found room for the three of us in his 'emergency' accommodation (in his own house). He also greeted us with a glass of aged white port and with the most exquisite pilgrim stamps for our credentials. 

Merilyn pointed out that we have not kept our promise to compose a daily haiku. It sounds ridiculous, but with these long stages we find it hard to make time for all the evening chores - finding accommodation, doing our hand washing, caring for feet, writing the blog and finding something to eat before falling exhausted into bed. However, today's endless olive trees provided inspiration for this attempt.

Stands of ancient olives
gnarling in the sun
still sentinels of time



We have been blessed by this day and those we've met, and despite some slight soreness of feet and legs, are going well. With gratitude for our pilgrim time and best wishes to all,


Sarah, Neil and Ilja



6 comments:

  1. Hey, thanks for the weather vanes! I posted some interesting bridge photos for you to see. Sounds like you will arrive at Coimbra the day befor we do. Is that your plan? Bom Caminho

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  2. What a fabulous day of walking, and what beautiful photographs! Thanks for bringing us along with you.

    Yes, how are your legs, Neil? Better or worse or the same? "Mejor" is better, "peor" is worse, and "lo mismo" is "the same" in Spanish, but I have no idea what it would be in Portuguese.

    Reading your blog, I become more convinced that I have to do this walk some time.

    Bom Caminho!

    Ken

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  3. Dearest Neil & Sarah – what a beautiful gift your reflections, pics and occasional haiku are for all of us who are enjoying walking the Portuguese Camino vicariously with you both (as we sit on our lounge at home)! Huge thanks for uploading these fabulous daily blogs – especially when you’re exhausted and in need of sleep at the end of each day. The pics of the landscape, people, flora and fauna are all exquisite and it’s also wonderful to hear your great sense of humour coming through in all your encounters. I’m so glad you’re experiencing such grace and hospitality from the Portuguese people. But I am worried about your legs, Neil. Are they any better today? And you’re looking very clean shaven, Neil – no beard this time? No worries about the occasional nature of your haiku – today’s was definitely worth waiting for!
    Please eat some of those plump figs for me – my favourite fruit!
    Blessings to you both – and to Ilja!
    Janet

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  4. ahoj dedo jsme u babicky a zdravime te risa a kiki

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