Stage 3. Vila Franca de Xira to Porto de Muge - 39kms, sunny and hot

What a day we have had!! Following a good night's sleep in a delightful pension in Vila Franca we hit the road early.

Yesterday we mentioned we'd been wondering what it might mean to 'walk on country' here and how we might listen to the land. In her response to that comment, Karina questioned what might be common in the earth's cry around the world, and what might be particular to the stories of different places. Today's early stages caused us to reflect more on this, as we passed through country that seemed run down or neglected, and some of it not very healthy. It seemed to reflect a lack of human care and identification with the land. There were weeds and lots of rubbish, sprawling semi-industrial estates, as if it didn't matter what was done there.

One village we passed through seemed really quite sick. Most of the trees looked diseased, the houses lacked any sense of warmth or character and the people seemed vacant, the sense we had was of alienation. 

And despite everything, the natural world breaks through; just imagine the determination of this stork, coming back and nesting on the chimney of this power station!

As the day warmed up, the path took us to more rural settings, apart from the railway line, which we have crossed on numerous occasions over the past couple of days (how many steps have we gone up and down??).

As you can see, we enjoyed ilja's company again today. We had some very interesting conversations as we have wandered along, as well as times walking silently in file.

It was getting hotter and hotter and we were glad to reach Azambuja for lunch. Once more we had a delightful interaction with a group who joined together to help us cross the language barrier and order some food. We really have been touched by their patience and good will.

Portugal, like Spain, is crazy about bullfighting and Azambuja has its annual fiesta complete with running with the bulls.

The placw we stopped in had real atmosphere, as do so many of these little bars and cafes.

In the afternoon, we walked into the rich alluvial floodplains of the Tejo, known as the food bowl of Portugal. We went through fields of tomatoes being harvested; never have we seen so many!

There were huge semi-trailers lined up all full to the brim of ripe red tomatoes.

Neil had a go at juggling with some that were left on the ground. The others decided he should stick to his day job, which for now is walking... And didn't we do some of that!

By now the afternoon was really hot, the sun continued to blaze down and we were weary, having walked about 25kms. The next section of the walk was on a blisteringly hot asphalt road, and as we staggered into the quiet village of Valada hoping to find accommodation we heard the ominous sound of bass guitar. It turned out there was a heavy metal Goth festival in progress - hundreds of black-clad young people swarmed the streets, complete with customary nose rings, mohawks and leather. It seemed the  most unlikely place we could ever think of to have such a gathering! There was nothing for it but to keep walking and hope that the next little village might have something. By now we had walked 35kms. This is where trusting the road really means something!

Another 4km, and again with the help of an address provided by last night's host and some local guides, we knocked on an unpromisng looking gate in a high walled quinta (a farmhouse). We were doubtful of success, but when Paula opened the gate, we entered another world - a very large compound complete with paved courtyard, tall shady tree, a wide welcoming verandah and an ancient stone villa which Paula (an architect) is doing up. Just paradise for weary peregrinos. She welcomed us in, gave us a drink and offered to cook us dinner. Our room is simple, rustic and perfect! This is one of those graced experiences on the road.

The view from our bathroom.

From two very happy pilgrims!

Bom caminho,

Neil and Sarah