Stage 9. Alvorge to Coimbra - 35 kms, sunny and warm

We rose at six this morning (we were the only ones in our little albergue) in order to get on the road and make up some distance to Coimbra. It was a still cool morning and we managed to negotiate our way down a windy bush track in the dark without mishap. 

It was wonderful to hear the beginnings of the dawn chorus of birds and animals and to smell those earthy rural scents.

The pre-dawn light was soon illumining our way, and creating some striking silhouettes. 

One more for you, Geoff. 

The sun broke through the misty grey light, and the day was fully underway.

We played with some characteristic Camino shadow shots - always fun and appropriately Jungian!

The day was divided into two walking experiences, the first through more open arid and rocky terrain replete with olives, and the second through richer well watered country, which was also more populous as we drew closer to Coimbra.

This bridge was constructed in the 17th century as part of Phillip III's drive to unite the Iberian peninsula by means of roads and bridges. Today it traversed a dry river bed, but in an area that was clearly proud of its Camino connections. We passed a series of special road signs and information boards.

There was a steep ascent up from the dry river valley to some Roman ruins which we didn't walk around. Amazing how your priorities and foot preservation strategies change on this kind of walk!

And then we were into the richer country, with multiple small holdings that looked as though they may provide subsistence living and signs of an essentially peasant lifestyle continuing. This woman was sitting in her field, scythe over her shoulder and very happy to wish us bom viage (good journey).

The temperature climbed as the day wore on and the country became more undulating. After about 25km, especially with the distance we have walked this week, keeping going becomes more a matter of endurance.

These coloured boots were a novel way to direct the different paths to Fatima and Santiago.

Finally, Coimbra came into view - just five kilometres from this vantage point over the city.

The walk in to a major city is rarely glamorous.

This one was made particularly striking by the insertion of a freeway through the middle of a Roman aqueduct. O to have a few ancient monuments to burn like this ...

We walked under one of its arches.

And then we were at our albergue for the night - the 17th century convent on the edge of town. We're here a day earlier than we planned, so we move tomorrow into our reserved accommodation in the old city. It feels great to have the prospect of a couple of rest days, and we are well satisfied with how we've walked so far. For those interested in the summary we've walked approximately 245km with 370km to go to Santiago!

Which brings us to our haiku for the day!

One of the problems when you start thinking about haiku is that your mind starts working on them at the strangest times, like in the middle of the night. That happened to me last night so as soon as I got up this morning (6am) I wrote them down. Nothing too flash but they capture something.

Centimetres mark 

the smooth trail of the snail,

and each step we take.

Beckoning footsore

pilgrims; three chairs promise

respite in cool shade.

Bom caminho

Neil, Sarah and Ilja