Wednesday 28 September 2016

Stage 16. Barcelinhos to Lugar do Corgo - 21kms, sunny and warm

The morning began with a crossing of the mediaeval bridge from Barcelinhos to Barcelos, a beautifully laid out and well kept town. As we climbed the hill on the other side of the river we were called over to the ancient castle by a man who was very keen to show us around and stamp our credentials.






Portugal old and new.




The cockerel is the symbol of Barcelos and there is an apocryphal story that goes with it, much as with Santo Domingo de Calzada on the Camino Frances. It involves a young man unjustly accused and hanged, a chicken that comes to life on the judge's dinner plate and a miraculous rescue by St James himself. This same cockerel has become a national symbol of Portugal. Mum (Sally) bought a cockerel tablecloth when she was in Lisbon, so these are for you Ma.



And these next three made us think of Neil's Mum (Arnie)...so for you, Mum.






The light was especially evocative this morning, drenching everything in a warm golden glow, and this gave rise to our first haiku:

Morning light plays on
tiled facades and smoke haze.
Grace poured out and through.





A second haiku:

Blackberry time. Summer
ripe, childhood sweet and
we're happy in the world.





Even the cattle glowed in the light! Neil had to make quite a noise to get this one to lift his head. He began by moo-ing loudly, but in the end what worked were the immortal words: 'Hey, cow'.



Midway through the day, as the temperature continued to rise, we came to a beautiful stone bridge beside a clear and very inviting pool.



 It was too much for one peregrino... splash!!






Our stage was shorter today, so we had time to take our time. We picked up supplies at a village beside the railway line.


Annemarie and Geoff had gone ahead of us at the swimming hole, though it turns out we each picnicked in a small village in some welcome shade.



Just after we set out again, we came across the bread van delivering door to door. Like the fish vans we've seen in different towns and villages, this too reminds us of an older Australia when the vegetable truck came up the street. This driver gave us two bread rolls just because we were peregrinos, and we bought his last pastel de nata for our afternoon tea!


And now we find ourselves with a bed on the verandah of a most welcoming rural albergue, Casa Fernanda.


Bacalhau appetisers have just been brought out and local sangria is being served. Bliss!! This place has the reputation of being the best albergue on the Camino and thanks to Annemarie we got a spot. 

Today has been a great day, gift from start to finish. Again we are so grateful to all who are helping make it possible for us to be here. We leave you with a haiku from Ilja written brilliantly in a second language, and reminding us of the privilege of being able to be on the road.

My part is finished
and I am sitting here
a stone on the road.

You are a rolling stone, Ilja, a pilgrim at heart, the path still stretches on...


Bom caminho
Sarah and Neil 


























 


3 comments:

  1. Great-looking day of walking, and swimming. Beautiful photographs and three--count 'em--haiku! A day that called forth creativity, that demanded it, clearly.

    Enjoy the salt cod and the albergue. Let us know if it's as wonderful as its reputation suggests!

    Bom Caminho!

    Ken

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  2. Really enjoying my "daily paper" from the Way, looks like a fascinating journey.

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  3. Finally someone is swimming!! I think I would have been in the beautiful river pictured many blogs ago! But today's pool certainly looked inviting and wonderful for a baptism of some kind... Glad to see you managed a paddle Sarah!

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