Stage 21. Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis - 22kms, sunny and warm

We've been in Spain for a couple of days now but last night was our first in a larger Spanish city and we've been reminded of some of the Spanish customs which take a little adjusting to but are very appealing. For a start, everything closes down for siesta at about 2.30pm. And then, around 6pm until late, almost everyone comes out into a public place - old people, couples, families and children.

We joined the throng after we'd secured our albergue in Pontevedra. There is a major church, of course, in the central plaza.

It has a special place for St James, who is making more and more appearances the closer we get to Santiago.

The walk out of Pontevedra in the early morning was delightful, as has been the whole stage today.

As we approached the railway line we came across an interesting sign. Keen for a good angle, Neil stepped to the right and promptly fell into a ditch, accidentally pressing the camera button as he went (nice angle, huh?).

This is what he was after!

Our morning tea break was in a tiny village with a lively cafe, populated on this Sunday morning almost entirely by pilgrims. It was a happy and energetic scene and the coffee was great.

It also gave an opportunity for Sarah to receive some lace tying advice from Geoff, to help manage the common walkers' complaint called 'lace bite' which is when laces tied too tightly inflame the tendon at the ankle. Geoff's solution helped a good deal!

After morning tea Geoff and Annemarie disappeared ahead and we ambled our way down to Caldas de Reis. It was a very pleasant path.

There was a definite tinge of Autumn in the air and it is noticeable that the leaves on vines and trees are starting to turn.

We passed a number of wayside crucifixes - this one seemed particularly poignant.

The chestnuts are ripe and dropping on the path. They were selling roasted chestnuts in Pontevedra last night. They remind us of a chestnut forest we walked through on the Camino Frances and those on the ground also make at times for a quick game of pilgrim soccer.

Our destination is getting closer with each step.

Finally, the old town of Caldas came into view. It is neatly contained between the rivers Umia and Bermana and its history is intimately linked to its thermal waters that have bubbled up at a constant 40 degrees for millennia. It was inhabited by early Celtic tribes and became a major spa town on the via Romana XIX - the Roman road we are following.

After a delicious tortilla lunch, we wandered down to bathe our feet in the thermal water.

It was Very Hot, and very soothing. Soon we were joined by two fellow pilgrims, German and Dutch, and we took selfies of our feet!

Noticing our somewhat cramped bathing conditions, a local man insisted we accompany him to a larger pool where we joined with other locals and visitors. We loved the conversation that unfolded around this pool, everyone unhurriedly relaxed and sharing the pleasure of soothed feet and of having nowhere else particular to be. No wonder philosophy was born in Mediterranean public space!!

Afterwards, we strolled down the river, where locals were also promenading. What a great way to relax, after a big week of walking since leaving Porto. 

It feels as though we've been granted a contemplative pause as we near Santiago, and we've been thinking today of Benedictus and of the service last night.

With our blessings,

Sarah and Neil