Our experience of pilgrimage in this region of France feels quite different from our experiences in Portugal and Spain. The countryside itself is different, quieter, more forested, somehow more still. We are the only ones on the road it seems, apart from an occasional local walker collecting mushrooms. And in place of large communal albergues, we are staying with families in their homes. Our community on this way has been less the community of fellow pilgrims and more the community of those who offer hospitality. They know each other, and help us find somewhere to stay for the coming evening, which is important given that so many places have closed down after the main walking season.
We had another delightful meal with a family last night and left their home this morning supplied with sandwiches and freshly baked cake to sustain us during today. It was a mainly sunny day, but crisp and a cold wind blowing.
By the measure of our walking in Portugal, today's stage was again a relatively short distance but with the hills, rocky paths and colder weather, it felt long enough.
We are in another little gite tonight and have been treated once again to the most generous hospitalIty, including an exquisite home-cooked meal of Le Puy lentils and smoked haddock, home grown vegetable soup, and a home brewed aperitif! Even more than the wonderful food, we are marvelling at the warm way all our hosts have opened their homes and themselves to us - we are strangers and yet we discover common bonds.
We began this post by saying that the experience of pilgrimage feels different here, and we find ourselves wondering what might be being wrought in us through this phase of our journey. Time will tell ...
Bon chemin,
Sarah and Neil
Sigh! The cluny way looking so beautiful- tempting to change our minds about next years camino... but keen for Deb to experience the company of pilgrims.
ReplyDeleteGlad you are having more of a meditative experience with local fellowship. Perfect as you close in home coming
How lovely that the seemingly humble ordinariness of everyday family life, local food and country paths are not so 'ordinary' at all, depending on your perspective...for you they are offering such meaningful experiences and gentle acceptance and care - so nurturing for you both. It says something lovely about what a day can hold for any of us when entered with openness and a valuing of the humble, simple ways of connecting as fellow humans...welcoming and being welcomed...
ReplyDeleteI was wondering how you were finding accommodation and your post explains it. What a wonderful thing, to receive such assistance as you walk.
ReplyDeleteToo bad about the bar being closed, though. When it's cold, it's nice to have a warm place to shelter, however briefly. At least you had cake and sandwiches for your lunch! And there's always somewhere to sit and eat in Europe, unlike in Canada, where you end up sitting and eating in a roadside ditch.
Great photo of Neil! Looking forward to more haiku, too.
Bon chemin!
Ken
Our earlier comments about hospitality seem to be strengthening in your experience during this stage. Last night there was a lecture on Hospitality and Inter-Religious Witness by Professor Mona Siddiqui, from the University of Edinburgh. It had a lot of interesting material. I guess you will have a paper to write about the practical side of the concept when you return. Beautiful photos as usual, especially the mushrooms! M.
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