Stage 34. Montbrison to Marols - 25kms, sunny and mild

Today we began in the flatlands of the Loire valley and then began to climb again into the higher reaches and forests of the central Massif.

We enjoyed the walk out of Montbrison, passing by trees whose colours are definitely more autumnal than when we started.

Ken, this one is for you.

We also enjoyed our morning coffee stop in a village shop and bar where we had yet another friendly interaction with the locals. Commenting on our post yesterday, Kerry said that as we entrust ourselves to the world and to others we discover that we are met more often by welcome than rejection. We have certainly been blessed by this experience while walking. Two older men, one lame and one lacking most of his teeth, there to share a morning glass of rose wine in what was clearly an established ritual, joined us at our table. They gave no hint that we were outsiders or intruders on their world, but wanted to share with us about our journey. Hence, this haiku!

Mid-morning rosé -

two friends in the village

bar, toothless and happy.

Having been sent on our way by cries of bonne chance (good luck) and bon courage, and much hand waving indicating the steepness of the climb to come, we realised we were leaving the prairies.

And, if a pic is a hill, then this sign was a little less than reassuring!

As was the sign of more mud!!

Fearlessly, these two pelerins walked on... and on.

Country paths gradually turned to more forested ways.

The further we walked into this landscape, the more we imagined ourselves as hobbits leaving the shire...

Actually, the climb wasn't too hard (maybe we have become road toughened!). In the far left distance you can see Montbrison, where we started today.

Before we knew it we were approaching Marols, where we were due to meet a woman who would show us to our communal gite for this evening. 

Marols is another old town whose fortifications were greatly enlarged during the 100 years war, in the 14th century. It has the most enormous Camino coquillle laid into the central square.

Again our lodging for the night has surprised and delighted us. We are in a wooden cabin on the edge of the forest originally used to offer holidays to children from the south of France. It is called Le Chalet de l'Amite. Now it is run by a local couple who offer it to pilgrims to stay in - so here we are, once again on our own in an extraordinary setting. As I write, we have expansive views of the Loire valley with the lights of the villages and towns glistening below us.

Earlier this afternoon when we arrived we had some time to spare. Of course, what do pilgrims do with a couple of hours at the end of the day? They go for a walk! We decided to explore a little of our temporary local area and we were rewarded by the fruits of the forest - champignons of many shapes and colours brought out by the recent rain, which followed the full moon (very important for mushrooms, apparently).

We were so taken with these little red ones that we decided to fry some up for dinner.

Only kidding!! Seriously, though, you could have an amazing meal if you knew which ones to pick, there were thousands of them and so many different varieties.

This really did feel like an enchanted forest - so evocative of children's fairytales, mystery and magic.

We will walk this path again as we rise even higher tomorrow morning. For now, with washing done and beds prepared, we are savouring our rest. 

Bon chemin,

Neil and Sarah

PS. Thank you to all who commented on our reflection from yesterday, your additional thoughts have nourished our thinking as we've continued to practice our pilgrimage today. 

PPS. Wifi accessibility is sporadic out here so we may be a bit irregular with posts these next couple of days.