Stage 37. St Paulien to Le Puy en Velay - 15kms, sunny patches and cool

We made it!!!! After 37 days of walking, covering over 900kms, we walked into Le Puy today - weary and quietly content. Our arrival was moving, and when we think about what has happened and what our bodies have managed these past six weeks we are amazed! 

When we woke this morning, we decided just to start walking and hopefully find something to eat along the way. The final day of a long walk is kind of strange - like the last 100kms when you're driving home from a holiday. You know the end is coming but you're not quite there yet. You want to be in the moment but inevitably the sense of finishing and the mixed emotions that come with that press in.

It was mostly a very pleasant path, and when the sun broke through it was even better!

Even as the season continues to draw in, there are signs of new life.

Geoff, this is our last wind vane of the trip for you!

And one more window ...

We had our breakfast/morning tea in Polignac, 5kms out of Le Puy and famous for its enormous castle perched high on a volcanic tor.

There was one more hill to cross before reaching Le Puy, and as we crested it we were surprised to discover that the way took us through a gate and into a lovely wooded garden. What a delightful final touch of mystery!

This final bit of forest gave rise to our slightly irreverent haiku:

Last day, last forest, last

piss behind a tree.

Pilgrimage ends. Give thanks.

As we emerged from the forest, our breath was taken away by the sight of the great statue of Mary high on another volcanic tor, and of the Chapel of St Michel perched on yet another peak.

The walk in is spell-binding and quite overwhelming. You carry the sense of the whole journey, and ahead of you the majesty just keeps unfolding - the city itself, the flaming beech trees and then finally the cathedral with its many steps and sheer presence.

On the steps of the cathedral, your attention is drawn in two directions: on the one hand, up into the great vault of the arched entry and on the other, back down the steps and the steep cobbled Rue du Tables that opens to the rest of the city.

What do you do then, when you finish? It's not as if there are hordes of people to welcome your entry - in fact, the dominant movement in the cathedral was the lady vacuuming (loudly) the floor! It reminded us of entering Santiago for the first time, when they were digging up the path and the cathedral was covered in scaffolding. The final ego check - so you've arrived, whatever....

But actually, it was fine - more than fine. We weren't expecting it to be different, and even with the vacuuming we found time to savour this arrival, to be still... 

A simple lunch followed, at the creperie Sarah and Sally had discovered last year. We had the one called Les Trois Fromages (the three cheeses) and a pichet of house Rose - it was glorious!!!

And so, friends, we are here, happy to be finished and loving this amazing old town in the valley. We will explore it more in the next couple of days and we look forward to sharing some of what unfolds. Thank you so much for being with us on this incredible journey.

Bon chemin,

Neil and Sarah