Stage 25. Tramayes to Ouroux - 16kms, cool and mostly cloudy

Our hotel last night made us think of Jack Gilbert's poem, 'The Lost Hotels of Paris', which is a lament for the old style family run hotels he used to stay in during the 1950s and 60s, and which no longer exist. In the little village of Tramayes, however, our hotel seemed a bit like this bygone era - authentic French provincial, with simple white painted furniture, and straightforward menu du soir for dinner. It was lovely! 

After leaving it this morning, we enjoyed a brief visit to the village street to pick up our two pains au chocolat for breakfast, and our small baguette for lunch. Although it was Sunday, all the little grocery shops were open for the morning since, as Neil said, it's simply impossible to imagine the French going for a day without fresh bread. 

We then embarked on our way, which took us once again through the most amazing woodland paths interspersed with long views of the valleys around.

At times the forests were very dark, evoking a sense of brothers Grimm fairy tales and the fellowship of the ring entering Fangorn Wood. We glimpsed how it is in northern Europe, that the imagery of the dark wood plays the same imaginative role as the desert or ocean in other mythologies. The forest here is trackless and mysterious, a place in which it is easy to lose your bearings, so a place potentially of threat.

In fact for a while, though we saw our first red squirrel and later a fox, we did mislay the Camino signs and followed instead the signs for another walk. 

It wasn't long before we tracked the Camino signs again and entered the neat little village of St Jacque des-Arrets. The local auberge was open and we went in for a cafe au lait. We were greeted by the most enticing smell of beef burgundy stew being served to a couple of hardy looking hunters. On a misty and cold morning it was very welcoming!!

We refrained from ordering the stew, as difficult as that was, because we had our own baguette and ham for a picnic lunch, and so we continued walking.

Not long after midday the sun poked faintly through the clouds. We lunched by the roadside.

And then onwards, ever onwards...

Another village and small bridge.

The church here was 12th century Romanesque with Byzantine features, including a mosaic apse, stained glass windows including one of Joan of Arc and some exquisite mosaics of the symbols of the four evangelists. Incredible in such a small village!

It was mid afternoon and we were nearing our destination for the day, a manor house out beyond the village. We stopped in a little tavern where we were greeted by Pierre who looked a bit like a leprechaun and served us une petite pichet of Beaujolais - vin rouge. It was a very humble place, but with the fire burning and the genuine hospitality we savoured the moment.

Several times over these past few days, I (Neil) have thought of my Dad, and how much he would have enjoyed some of what we've experienced - particularly the food!! We've also been struck by the stable peacefulness of this land and the seemingly timeless way of life that continues in it. We feel deeply held and nurtured.

After leaving Pierre, we walked the last kilometre up the hill to the gite called Gros-bios, which is really a 500 year old manor house whose current owner offers hospitality to pilgrims, walkers and horse riders (there's ample stabling for their horses, and some staying here tonight). 

So we remain profoundly grateful for the opportunity to walk through this land, to greet and be greeted by its inhabitants and participate in its gifts.

Bon chemin,

Neil and Sarah