Last night our host, Jean Robert, treated us to a feast - his hospitality as elegant and gracious as the manor house he opens to his guests. Dinner began with kir (black currant and white wine aperitif), followed by an utterly delicious carrot soup, roast chicken, potatoes and green beans, a cheese platter to die for, and a pear and chocolate tart. The meal, which he prepared and then served his seven guests all seated around the one huge table, was accompanied by a lovely local Beaujolais wine and lots of French conversation of which we got the smallest gist but still felt included. It was truly a memorable occasion, and we left this morning full of gratitude for this opportunity.
This is the manor house from above. It is set in a huge reserve surrounded by a high rock wall kilometres long.
Jean Robert is a gentle man with a passion for this place and also for Breton folk dancing.
Four of the other guests last night were horse riders exploring the region.
Our path today took us through some higher wooded country, there were some serious climbs that took us over 1000 metres and then, of course some steep descents.
It was cold all day and particularly in the higher parts where the wind cut through our clothing and kept us moving. The paths were hard and rocky too.
Always, once we reached an ascent, we were rewarded with vistas of green countryside and scattered villages stretching as far as the eye could see.
We had a sense of the largeness of the landscape, due in part to the expansive views and in part to the size of the conifers that lined our way.
Below the forests we entered a more pastoral scene. Fallen apples lined the ground, while others were still being picked.
We reached the village of Propieres after four and a half hours of straight walking, very ready for our lunch! The homes were well kept with lovely cottage gardens.
We picked up a few provisions from the small supermarket and shared a chilly picnic lunch with Sammy before he moved on. We then went in search of the gite we planned to stay in. It wasn't that easy to find, but with the help of a couple of locals and some crafty way finding, we eventually arrived at 'La Mousardiere' which feels as though it is set deep in the countryside, well off the beaten track.
Our host Christine is offering sanctuary to all living things - pilgrims, numerous stray dogs, a couple of cats, a llama, chooks and her six grandchildren. She greeted us with a hot cup of tea, just perfect, and we are comfortably ensconced in a little room for the night. All in all, a great day.
Bon chemin,
Sarah and Neil
PS. This carving of a pilgrim was part of a totem-like pole in the middle of a traffic roundabout before the first big climb of the day. Maybe to encourage us when the road got steep and rocky!
It sounds like autumn has arrived where you're walking. I'll bet you were happy to get that cup of tea when you arrived at your destination!
ReplyDeleteIt decided to snow here and everything outside is covered in white, including the green leaves on some of the trees. Maybe I'll make a cup of tea for myself!
Bon chemin!
Ken