Stage 35. Marols to St Georges-Lagricol - 33kms, cloudy, misty rain and cold

Today we passed across the highest point of the Cluny way at Montarcher, so named because of the archers stationed there as part of the region's defences in times past. 

When we awoke this morning, the distant view of the Loire valley had disappeared and our cabin was blanketed in mist. 

There was a brief moment when the clouds parted, but they quickly closed and we walked in gentle, misty rain all morning.

The walk itself was in two parts. For the first half of the day, the forest was the dominant feature. 

We were struck by the way that the pines seem to absorb the light, while the beeches almost glow, so luminously yellow are their leaves. 

Mushrooms abounded.

And sometimes the path was completely covered in soft leaves.

Montarcher itself is quite exposed and it marked a change in both the weather and the terrain.

Note the archer's slit in the wall above the gate arch.

The church here was simple, but had an earthed feel about it - all stone, with ancient frescoes and modest stained glass windows.

We descended from this high point of 1150 metres, and the forests gradually gave way to more farmland.

One thing that struck us again today, and that has been a feature of this Cluny walk, is the number of paths and tracks that run through the region. Many of them seem very old, predating sealed roads and offering numerous ways of getting from here to there. 

Criss-cross paths - a landscape

tattooed by walking.

Old ways deeply inscribed.

Our first major village of the day was Usson en Forez (18kms), where we managed to get wifi access and something to eat. From here we passed the town timber yard and continued on over undulating pastureland.

Apart from one old hunter and his dog, the countryside felt much more sarsely populated than the other side of the pass.

We're staying tonight in a little village, two kilometres off the path. At this late stage of the walking season and in these less populated areas we need to take accommodation where we can find it. 

We covered quite a bit of territory today, and we're pleased with the way our bodies are holding up, even though there is some inevitable weariness after so many days on the road. Certainly tonight's generous meal in our village gite was most welcome!

Bon chemin

Neil and Sarah