As we approached St Haon in the rain yesterday evening, we were reminded of the scene in The Fellowship of the Ring when Frodo, Sam, Merry and Pippin stumble into a gated village on a rainy night.
We discovered this morning that our lodging last night was indeed a house in the wall of the old town gate. It accounted for its many stairs, strange angles and nooks and crannies. Downstairs in the same building was the restaurant run by our host, where we had our dinner. It was a beautiful room, full of warmth and character, and this was reflected in our meal.
The meal began with a couscous salad, followed by a dish of Le Puy lentils and sausage, and finished off with a dessert of grape clafoutis. It was delicious!! We also met everyone who came to the restaurant for dinner, including the French President of St Vincent de Paul who happens to live in this village and to be coming to Australia in a couple of weeks.
The price we paid for such a picturesque, old world spot, however, was no shower or toilet available to our room - the village public facilities were available down a very narrow windy set of stairs, and across the road! In the rain, it was not that appealing!!
We survived the experience, and awoke this morning to the sound (once more) of pouring rain - such is the life of the pilgrim! Given how many wonderful fine and clear days we've had, we really feel we can't complain so set off into the weather with relative equanimity. As it turned out, it rained all day, which made taking photographs difficult.
The terrain of today's walk felt the least picturesque of our stages so far - nevetheless, even in the misty rain we found some nice stretches and interesting villages.
These guys didn't mind the rain. Hope you appreciate the artistic rain drop effect!
We lunched in a village with a Michelin one star restaurant called The Little Prince. This area seems to have connections with Antoine Ste Exupery - maybe he came from here?
Here's the restaurant, but alas we weren't eating there. Thankfully the local boulangeie was open, and did us proud!!
We walked on, the mist sometimes clearing to give us a longer view of the Loire valley.
We passed some fairly grand homes.
One even had a moat...
We've passed every conceivable domestic animal today - geese, hens, horses, rabbits, cows, sheep, ducks, etc. This one was a little less domestic and a little more surprising. Like any respectable French lizard, however, he was eating escargot!!
As the day went on, the puddles got bigger. It didn't matter - our feet were soaked by this time.
Mid-afternoon we sloshed into the twinned villages of St Jean and St Maurice. We have a communal gite to stay in, and we're the only ones there. It's perfect because there's a heater on which to dry our shoes and clothes.
The village overlooks the Loire and was once a significant bastion against marauding attackers coming up the river.
The little church of St Maurice is very old, and contains frescoes dating back to the 13th century.
Only recently, a fresco of St James was discovered in one of the window recesses. Another reminder that this has been a significant pilgrim way for many centuries.
Notice how big his feet are ... It looks like pilgrims have always suffered from blisters!
Sloshing along in the rain today, this little haiku arrived.
Red ponchos bright in
cobbled lanes. The season
turns; wintering rains.
We are thinking of our Benedictus community preparing for another Saturday service. May your gathering be rich and renewing - our blessings to you all.
Bon chemin
Sarah and Neil
Loved the haiku and the photographs--proof that the spirit withstands, even prospers in, the rain. And great to hear that there's a heater where you can dry your things. Luck is with you!
ReplyDeleteEnjoy tonight's evening meal--I hope it's as good as yesterday's.
Bon chemin!
Ken