39. Xunqueira de Ambia

Laza is nestled in the valley, and the first few kilometres of today’s stage were along the road that wound through this valley.

But ultimately, I had to get over the next pass, and that meant climbing. There was a 500 metre ascent in this stage ahead and most of it came in one steep hit! In the space of a few kilometres and with a fair bit of puffing and sweating I went from the valley floor back up in the clouds.

At the top of the pass, I came to the little stone village of Albergueria where there is a bar full of Camino shells. Every pilgrim who enters the bar is asked to sign a shell, which is then placed on the walll, or the roof , or anywhere it will fit. There were thousands of them dating back for over two decades. When I told the barman I was from Australia he proudly pointed to Tony Kevin’s shell (some of you may have read his book of his Camino from Granada). Here are two Italian pilgrims who are on the same stage as me.

From Albergueira, there was a brief traverse across the misty pass...

and then it was back down into the next valley, which is more of a plain as you can see from this shot.

Back down again, the scenes were more typically rural. This farmer was adding a bit of colour with his gates.

As I approached the first town back down in the valley I heard a band playing. And then, there they were, walking down the road complete with drums on wheels - I have no idea why they were there but they gave me a wave and Buen Camino. And seemed in good spirits.

These are such a feature of Galicia and this is the first one I have seen. Many more were to come.

From there, it was a long stretch to Xunqueira with quite a bit of road walking. These 35 km stages gradullay take their toll on the energy so it is always nice when the final bits offer something to keep you going. Today’s stage did just that with some beautiful, cool forest sections towards the end.

That was my destination in the distance.

The weather has been much more mild these past two days. Not sure what these clouds signify but I’m sure I will find out!



The albergue was already buzzing when I arrived. A bunch of cyclists were there, and true to form they seemed to have taken most of the oxygen and space from the place. Ahh, the trials of pilgrimage. I had a quick shower and left in search of a bar and some solitude... save for the TV which blares away in almost every bar! Tomorrow it’s a much shorter stage to Ourense where I shall enjoy mooching around the old town in the afternoon.

Buen Camino

Neils