48. Muxia - Atlántico ho ho!

I am writing today’s blog sitting under an awning looking into the peaceful little harbour of Muxia. It is almost impossible to believe I am on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. Nearly two months ago I began walking from another sea, the Mediterranean, from Valencia in the south-east of Spain along the Levante way. The Atlantic seemed so far away - so many dusty roads to walk down, so many fields and towns to pass through, so many hills to climb, so far to go. And now, here I am in the northwestern corner of Galicia - what a wonderful day it is! 

I was woken early (5.30am) by restless bustling pilgrims. They tried to be quiet but packing a pack isn’t the quietest activity on the planet. It’s one of the trials of the way that you must endure the nocturnal habits of others. What the heck, I thought, there’s no peace here and I’m feeling good again (thankyou all you well-wishers), might as well get up and go. And, so I did.. 

The path from Olveiroa winds up and along a ridge from which northwestern Galicia stretches before you.

I stopped for brekky on the saddle just before the two paths divide - Fisterra left, Muxia right.

To my delight, most were taking a left, I had the Muxia way to myself, and what a great way it is.

A plump fig tree...

and a pregnant plane tree!

It was another hot and humid day so within minutes clothes were soaked with sweat. Any shade and breeze was appreciated... and the occasional cafe for a cool drink. The little villages were quiet and well kept, and had some interesting and colourful buildings.

And doors! There you go, Charles, this one’s half open - a sign perhaps...

As it neared midday, I climbed a hill that I suspected might be the last. Heading down the other side I emerged from the trees and behold, the Atlantic Ocean!!! I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry. In the end, I did both. It was soooooo good to see the sea!

There was still seven kilometres to walk but at last I came to a beach. Off with the shoes and socks and in I waded - it felt sooooo good!

Here is one happy peregrino.





As I was drying my feet, I met a young woman from Poland who has been sunbaking - in fact she had fallen asleep on the beach and was really sunburnt! She had walked in a day ago and directed me to a good albergue. I arrived and received a warm welcome. It’s one of the best designed albergues I’ve stayed in, it even has a saltwater trough for pilgrims to soak their feet!

Muxia is a wonderful laid back seaside town as far as I can tell. It doesn’t have the hype of too many pilgrims which can be a bit off-putting at Fisterra. There is the sound of seagulls (man they are big!) and the smell of salt and sardines cooking on braziers, the buildings are simple and colourful and all in all is fabulous to be here.

And, of course, there’s the church and site where the movie The Way finishes.

This peregrino must have finished here. I have one more stage to go - Finisterre (the end of the earth) - where I too will shed my boots, at least for now!

Buen Camino 

Neils