Friday 15 June 2018

40. Ourense

After two 35 km days of walking, I was looking forward to a shorter stage today. Somehow, those 22 kms into Ourense seemed a lot further though, a combination of hard road walking, busy industrial areas (dodging trucks) and complex navigation, I guess. 



We were woken this morning by one of the cyclist’s alarms. Usually when an alarm goes off in an albergue the owner is quick to silence it, but not this guy - it must have repeated six times! After that the biker brigade launched into a full scale pack up complete with incessant loud rustling of plastic bags. You’ve got to love these guys, how do they take up so much space and remain so oblivious to everyone else in the albergue??

You could be forgiven, dear reader, for thinking that this peregrino is a tad weary. Such is the way of the Camino, after forty days of walking it can mess with you a bit! An opportunity to practise patience and compassion!!



Ourense itself is nestled in the valley of the Rio Miño. The old city surrounds the enormous cathedral...







it features classic stone buildings, numerous trendy shops, and enticing bars and cafes. 

A range of bridges span the river and join the two sides of the town. There’s your traditional, elegant stone arch...



and there’s your sexy, modern steel and concrete job.



Actually, I’ve looked forward to seeing this millennium bridge close up since Geoff posted a photo on his blog in 2014. It really is very creative, with a footpath that drops below the main platform and then rises high above it.





Needless, to say, it gave a great view of the central city.



Pretty nice, hey! Now where was that smoking chimney stack?

Alas, today was the day I decided to retire my old Merrell walking shoes. After 3500 kms they were showing signs of wear - like a hole in the heel and vents on both sides of the soul. These have only appeared in the last couple of days, but with over 230 kms of Galician mud to walk through before Finisterre I decided it was time for new tyres. Farewell, old friends, you have served me well.





Buen Camino 
Neils


8 comments:

  1. Ok Neil. You give me no option. Why didn't you use the new Merrels that you bought from me when you were here two years ago? A fair question I think!! No working with some people:) Enjoy your stage out tomorrow. As mentioned it starts with a bang! Glad you liked the bridge. Geoff

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  2. Where will you get new shoes? Don’t say you’ve walked all that way with spare boots in your pack!

    The train between Santiago and Barcelona stops in Ourense. Temptation! Satan, get thee behind me!

    ¡Buen Camino!


    Ken

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  3. Hey Neil, don't get rid of your boots - throw them at passing MAMILs🚴 - you'll have plenty of opportunity as you climb up out of Ourense tomorrow😬. In the meantime enjoy the vibe and the pulpo😎

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    1. Good comment! Yes, the herd bikers on the Camino are changing it, often not in a good way. Late on the Plata in 2014 I met 2 bright guys on motorcycles who were tearing (literally) up a narrow trail on the camino riding in reverse direction. They told me it was their vacation road trip. I've often wondered what happened to them...😎 Geoff

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  4. Hi Geoff. I had similar experiences to Neil on the VdlP last year. Most were fine, but the ones who finish riding early in the day, (some places don't let them checkin until later which is fair), commandeer the bottom bunks, spread their gear over others, etc etc and then rise pilgrimator-like the next morning do test one's sense of pilgrim solidarity, serenity and goodwill. Then again after forty days everyone gets tested. All the best, see you on the Camino one day, Mike

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  5. I do hope you are not completing the walk barefoot!

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  6. Nice bridge.looks like you can circle the bridge all day long without touching a car

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