It felt different, when I woke this morning. This was the day I would make this significant milestone. When I went down to the bar for a cafe, the others seemed different too - pensive, perhaps, aware that after so long they too were coming to the end of their pilgrimage. We all set off separately and I walked the whole stage without stopping. It was as if I had the wind in my sails and I was going for it.
As predicted, the walk out of Ponte Ulla was a steepish climb.
Before long, I was back in the forested paths that have marked my time in Galicia. I even got to walk past a stand of some of my favourite Australian smoky blue leaved eucalypts.
The sun was shining brightly for this entry into the historic town of Santiago. Up and down, up and down, and then, just one final hill to cross.
After three hours of walking, I crested a hill and the spires of the cathedral came into sight. My heart thrilled!
Closer, ever closer...
And then, I entered the plaza, which was awash with pilgrims. There was plenty of backslapping and hugging and quite a few tears - some of them mine!
It was strange arriving without my peregrina companion or anyone in particular to share the moment with. I took a quick selfie and then went around the corner to listen to the busking piper - entering or leaving Santiago, the sound of the bagpipes has been a much loved constant. The piper had just the right feel and I let the music wash over and through me for some time.
Next, I went to the pilgrim office to register my arrival, and after, to a quiet bar out of the action for a celebratory ale. I’m not sure if I looked hungry but the lady in the bar came out on two occasions with little pinchos, which I really appreciated.
Next, I went to find the Seminario Menor where I hoped to stay for the next two nights (thanks for the tip, Mike). After showering and washing my clothes, I headed back into the centre to visit our favourite tapas bar. It was as enticing as ever!
Beloved Sarah, this one is for you. How I wish you were here.
Since then, I’ve been wandering the ancient stone lanes that are so part of this wonderful place. Along the way, I came across this old door painted in Celtic blue.
Since then, I’ve been wandering the ancient stone lanes that are so part of this wonderful place. Along the way, I came across this old door painted in Celtic blue.
It would be very easy to finish here in Santiago, after so much walking I am tired, but I’m also not quite done. My goal was to walk from the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean, from Valencia to Finisterre. There are four more stages to go and I would really like to get there. I’ll take a rest day tomorrow (dangerous, I know), and then I plan to walk on, arriving at Finisterre on or just after the solstice.
I’m meeting the other guys at the Cathedral tonight and we are going to the ‘Black Cat’, which Andres assures me is a very unassuming but great local haunt for food and music. Should be a fun way to celebrate our arrival and the many graces we have all experienced on this pilgrim way.
Buen Camino
Neils
Well done and wishing you every blessing Neil, Seeing you there in front of the Cathedral is so heart warming - enjoy your time in SdC - relax, reflect, rejoice, renew and . . . return to the path
ReplyDeleteWell done mate. Good to take arrival quietly and let it sink in, it's a big deal.
ReplyDeleteCongratulations, my friend! Enjoy those pinchos. You have accomplished something big and difficult.
ReplyDelete¡Buen Camino!
Ken
Oh, so well done! And I feel somehow those legs WILL take you on. But enjoy, rejoice and restore with some slow-time where you are for a bit. Many blessings.
ReplyDeleteFM
Well done Neil!! A sense of accomplishment with so many emotions as you arrive into Santiago. A special day for you amigo!
ReplyDeleteGeoff & Annemarie
Huge Congratulations Neils - what an achievement - and how glorious your "homecoming" to Santiago sounds. Rest well and I sure hope your legs say "yes" to the Finisterre extension! In the meantime, enjoy the cathedral service, the food, wine and music - and the companionship of your fellow travellers! Janet
ReplyDeleteMate what an achievement. Its nice reading your comments of your gentle return to a place that means so much. A second home. I love that idea of getting home after the adventure. Its more than completion its a closing of the circle, a welcome back to a place that you now belong to in an eternal way and that will never change.
ReplyDeleteI so wish I was there to enjoy it with you. Well done to Andres and Luis as well. I saw that Luis was back walking and Andres wasn't using his knee supports so it all looks good for them too.