48. Ourense to Osiera

Last night’s wild storm eventually abated and I was able to return to the albergue to sleep. This morning, I met up with Fernando in a cafe just over the road from where he was staying. The good thing about bigger towns is that you can usually find a cafe open when pilgrims are ready to eat! We had a quick breakfast and began the walk out of Ourense, across the Roman bridge and the rio Miṉo, out through residential districts and up! Up, up, up to the plateau on the northern side of the city. It was a steep and exhausting climb. 

Once on the plateau, the path flattened and meandered through numerous little villages all the way to Cea. There was a light drizzle much of the morning and the humidity was high. It must be about 98%, which means everything feels damp and clingy but in other ways it was perfect weather for walking in this landscape.

One hundred kilometres to Santiago.

Some locals out for a stroll in the mist. I imagine this is pretty normal for them.

A beautiful old Roman bridge.

Water on the road!

I reached Cea, and waited in a café for Fernando to arrive. Shall we press on to the Monasterio de Osiera. Three issues - will we find food, do we have the energy and can we avoid a drenching? Decision: have a bite to eat and press on. 

It was a beautiful path.

Again, there was a slight drizzle for the first hour of walking, and, then, to our amazement the cloud lifted and the sun came out. More storms are forecast, but for now we’ll take what sunshine we can get.

The Monasterio de Osiera is an amazing complex of old buildings, and the albergue, which feels very modern, is tucked away behind it. It was a relief to have a shower and to feel dry after another day of feeling clammy. Although, as I type, the clouds are building again. 

Here comes the rain!

Buen Camino 

Neil 💙👣

47. Xunqueira de Ambía to Ourense

It was a shorter stage today, thankfully - only 22kms. Even so, it felt long. There were some nice wooded sections, but the bulk of the stage was on the road. And, as with entering any large city, there was an extended bustling industrial area to get through as well as satellite suburbs. 

There’s plenty of mud on the off-road sections but thankfully it wasn’t raining this morning. There’s more due later.

Plenty of mist too - it’s very humid!

Ourense cathedral

One of the things I’ve been really looking forward to at Ourense is having some pulpo. It turns out that Fernando was too. So here it is, pulpo a feira - perfecto!

A busker on the old Roman bridge. 

The millennium bridge 100 metres downstream. That wobbly bit is the footpath!

I am currently holed up with about thirty others in a women’s clothing shop in the main plaza of Ourense while a massive rain/hail storm rages outside. I had just managed to get some washing dry so I’m reluctant to have it soaked again. Not before tomorrow, anyway! Oh, now the power has gone. Maybe we’ll be here for days!!

Assuming I do get out of this shop, there are 110kms to walk to Santiago - four stages. And then there are four more stages to Finisterre, via Muxia. And by that stage, I will be well and truly done.

Buen Camino 

Neil🧡👣

46. Laza to Xunqueira de Ambía

Today’s stage was physically, mentally and emotionally exacting. It’s been long journey, the end is in sight but I’m not quite there, I’m tired and it’s raining - which means that everything is damp! The challenge at this point is to stay the course. 

The stage began with a long walk (maybe six kilometres) along the valley floor. I passed through a couple of tiny villages and was surprised to see this sign to Granada - maybe it was placed there by the owner of the house. I wonder how accurate it is. Mind you, Granada does seem a long time ago.

A heavy mist filled the valley and visibility was limited.



And then the climbing began - four kilometres with some seriously steep sections.

As I gained altitude the most thinned slightly.

At the top of the hill, I came to the old town of Albergueria where there is a bar covered literally from roof to floor with Camino shells signed by pilgrims passing through. There are thousands of them, including one I signed in 2018.

This is like being in the fellowship of pilgrims.

From Albergueria, there was a four kilometre walk along the ridge.

And then the path plunged down into the next (much broader) valley. My knees were protesting a bit by this stage, remembering there was also twelve kilometres of descent yesterday.

Once down, there was another twenty kilometres of more or less flat ground to cover.

This is the first raised grain storage building I have seen in Galicia. There were many more after this one.

This has got to be one of the longest, straightest sections of road in Galicia.

Actually, at the end of this section there was a slight turn in the road (maybe 8 degrees) and then this!! I think this section would have gone for about four kilometres straight - a bit daunting when you’ve already walked twenty five kilometres!!

Eventually, the path turned into another little village. It wasn’t much really but it did have some cheerful signs to encourage pilgrims.

From here, there was another seven kilometres or so. Much of this was in forest, which was a nice relief.

From this high point, I could see Xunqueira in the far distance. It was a welcome sight. 

I managed to make it to the albergue before the thunderstorms started again. Fernando arrived an hour or so later and we walked into town (in the rain) for a meal. It all looks a bit grey in the rain but has some significant and old buildings. 

Santiago looks a little haunted here and at this stage of the Camino many of us pilgrims are looking much the same!!

So folks, welcome to paradise.

Buen camino

Neil💚👣

PS. KAS asked about staying over in an albergue because of bad weather. I think it may be possible in a private albergue, although you’d probably have to vacate while they clean. If you are staying in a public or municipal albergue you need to be out by 9am next morning. You cannot stay in the same place twice in a row. 

PPS. I’ve been thinking about this little piece from Michael Leunig today - I can’t understand why??!!

How To Get There

Go to the end of the path

Until you get to the gate.

Go through the gate

And head straight out towards the horizon.

Keep going towards the horizon.

Sit down and have a rest every now and again,

But keep going, just keep on with it.

Keep going as far as you can.

That’s how you get there.