20. Villaharta to Alcaracejos

I made it. Phew! What a day!

I was up at 5.15am to time with the opening of the bar downstairs at 5.30am. 

Problem No. 1 - The door out of the Hostal was locked #*¥%^#. After tapping and knocking for 30 minutes or do it was obvious no one could hear. Eventually, I found the fire escape and got put that way. I had a quick cafe and tostadas and launched into the night. 

Problem No. 2 - It was pitch black walking back up the road to Villaharta and at one point I heard a rustle and a deep growl in the bush beside me. My heart skipped a beat and I waited for a wild boar to come charging out. Thankfully nothing appeared and I pressed on. 

Gradually the dawn broke and it was beautiful. 

As soon as it was light the birds started to sing and they were magnificent. I recorded it on my phone but don’t know how to share it here. 

A little later, two deer ran out in front of me, startled by my appearance. They were too quick to catch on camera. From here the track narrowed and it was like bushwalking in Australia.

The darker line in this photo is an ant track - a track within a track.

Up and down I wound, over one ridge and down into the next valley - over and over again.

 

Most of the time, I was out of the sun but eventually it caught up with me.

Stepping stones for pilgrims when water is flowing.

Ten kilometres down, twenty seven to go.

From mid-morning the temperature really started to rise and the track became more uneven and rocky under foot - much slower and harder walking (and I didn’t want to repeat my fall of last year!). There were occasional sections of gravel road which were a bit easier.

A fire has been through here - I wondered if it was one of the fires we heard about in the news last year. The trees have died but there is some regeneration.

I only saw one human being on the whole of this stage - an old farmer who beckoned me to his fence and tried repeatedly to tell me something that I couldn’t understand. I imagine it was comical to watch us trying to communicate!! The only bit I thought I picked up was that there was a Fuente one kilometre ahead. Sure enough…

In the last third of the stage the terrain flattened markedly. It reminded me of many semi arid parts of NSW. 

O no, a wild boar warning!! I had my trusty staff at the ready to fend him off but, thankfully, this guy didn’t show either.

The only water I saw on the stage was at this ‘river’ crossing. I was sorely tempted to plunge in and cool down. As I walked to the edge, I saw a tortoise enjoying the cool and decided not to disturb him.

Eventually, I broached a small hill and saw the town just ahead - a sight for sore eyes.

I went straight to the nearest bar and ordered a cold beer. O wow, it was good!

I’ve since found the albergue, showered and washed clothes, and returned to the same bar for a meal and more refreshments. Geoff Travers, my Canadian peregrino friend, swears by Aquarius lemon drink. I just downed two in quick succession and, I agree, when you’re patched, it’s goood! 

There is one other pilgrim in the albergue tonight - an older Belgian guy (75) on his fifth Camino. He walked to Cerro Muriano and caught the bus to here. ‘I’m too old for such long stages’, he said, ‘especially with so much heat and undulation’.

It was a challenging day, I’m pleased I made it in okay shape and I’m very happy for a rest tonight.

Buen Camino

Neil 💚👣🍋

PS. Thanks everyone for following along and for your comments and reflections, you and they are very much appreciated.

PPS. I have just heard from Sarah. She too made it - to Bonnevaux. She says it is cool and green, and she has a really nice room overlooking wonderful grounds (photo below). The retreat she is leading has just started.