So, from about 8.30pm (when I am so dog tired I am already in bed) until about 9.30pm you have everyone squeaking up the stairs to get ready for bed. Then from about 10.00 - 12.00pm you have 90% of the pilgrims (say 18 people) squeaking back down to go to the toilet and back up to get to their beds. Then between 12.00 - 3.00am things are pretty quiet, except for the snoring! And then from about 3.00 - 5.00am you have about 70% (say 15 people) squeaking back down to go to the toilet (usually turning their torch on so they can see) and then back up again to get to their beds. And then from 5.30 - 7.00am you have people stirring to get up and pack their gear (usually accompanied by lots of rustling, dropping things on the floor, zipping, etc) and get back down the staircase to get out.
Sometimes there is no rickety staircase to negotiate, but in my experience of albergues, when this is the case there is inevitably a very squeaky door between the dorm and the toilet.
If you have not experienced this, you will appreciate that sleep doesn’t necessarily come easily, even though everyone is exhausted from walking!!
My solution in the mornings, is to clear out as soon as I’ve been woken (if I have slept) so as to avoid at least the morning chaos. It’s what I did this morning and, once outside, I had the road to myself and it was gloriously quiet (and cold!).
The cows seemed particularly inquisitive today.
This is perhaps the Via de la Plata equivalent of Cruz de Ferro on the Camino Frances. It’s just outside Salamanca, and a few pilgrims, at least, have placed stones at the foot of the cross, symbolising the laying down of some sin or burden.
Inspired by Mike’s comment on last night’s blog, I went to check out the cathedral doors, in search of the astronaut that is reputedly carved into the stone work.
At first, no success. But then I cunningly trailed along behind one of the tour guides leading groups of tourists around and heard he point him out!! So, who can explain this? I look forward to hearing.
Part of the University.
I was keen to find this statue of Miguel de Unamuno - philosopher, author, poet, and passionate advocate for social justice and personal integrity. Unamuno was a Professor of Greek Language and Literature, and later rector of the University of Salamanca. I love his poem, Throw Yourself Like Seed. Later in his life he was critical and fell foul of Franco. He was imprisoned for his stance and died there of a heart attack.
The courtyard of the city library - biblioteca.
One of the doors to the University.
I’ve managed to book myself into a five bed dorm for tonight. It’s been good to have some time to mooch around this afternoon, and to engage in that most wonderful of Spanish traditions - a siesta!
And finally, here’s one of the hostal I am staying in - all lit up in red. If you look closely you can see my socks hanging from the first floor balcony!!
The cows seemed particularly inquisitive today.
This is perhaps the Via de la Plata equivalent of Cruz de Ferro on the Camino Frances. It’s just outside Salamanca, and a few pilgrims, at least, have placed stones at the foot of the cross, symbolising the laying down of some sin or burden.
After twenty kilometres or so, I was drawing near to the centre of Salamanca. The cathedral is the striking landmark, and I could see looming large well before I entered the city.
Inspired by Mike’s comment on last night’s blog, I went to check out the cathedral doors, in search of the astronaut that is reputedly carved into the stone work.
At first, no success. But then I cunningly trailed along behind one of the tour guides leading groups of tourists around and heard he point him out!! So, who can explain this? I look forward to hearing.
Part of the University.
And, a glimpse of the Plaza Mayor.
I was keen to find this statue of Miguel de Unamuno - philosopher, author, poet, and passionate advocate for social justice and personal integrity. Unamuno was a Professor of Greek Language and Literature, and later rector of the University of Salamanca. I love his poem, Throw Yourself Like Seed. Later in his life he was critical and fell foul of Franco. He was imprisoned for his stance and died there of a heart attack.
The courtyard of the city library - biblioteca.
One of the doors to the University.
I’ve managed to book myself into a five bed dorm for tonight. It’s been good to have some time to mooch around this afternoon, and to engage in that most wonderful of Spanish traditions - a siesta!
Tomorrow, I press on north towards Zamora. Tonight, I will meet Manuel from Switzerland to celebrate the end of his Camino and share ain a meal. We haven’t seen each other since that 45km day to Cañaveral but we vowed then that we would catch up again in Salamanca. I will drink a toast too, to my amigo Mike (in Motion) who loves this walk and this city, and to you, dear readers, for your persevering support and virtual company, which means a lot to me. Salud!
And finally, here’s one of the hostal I am staying in - all lit up in red. If you look closely you can see my socks hanging from the first floor balcony!!
Buen Camino
Neil ❤️👣
Throw Yourself Like Seed
Shake off this sadness, and recover your spirit;
Sluggish you will never see the wheel of fate
That brushes your heel as it turns going by,
The man who wants to live is the man in whom life is abundant.
Now you are only giving food to that final pain
Which is slowly winding you in the nets of death,
But to live is to work, and the only thing which lasts
Is the work; start there, turn to the work.
Throw yourself like seed as you walk, and into your own field,
Don’t turn your face for that would be to turn it to death,
And do not let the past weigh down your motion.
Leave what’s alive in the furrow, what’s dead in yourself,
For life does not move in the same way as a group of clouds;
From your work you will be able one day to gather yourself.
That brushes your heel as it turns going by,
The man who wants to live is the man in whom life is abundant.
Now you are only giving food to that final pain
Which is slowly winding you in the nets of death,
But to live is to work, and the only thing which lasts
Is the work; start there, turn to the work.
Throw yourself like seed as you walk, and into your own field,
Don’t turn your face for that would be to turn it to death,
And do not let the past weigh down your motion.
Leave what’s alive in the furrow, what’s dead in yourself,
For life does not move in the same way as a group of clouds;
From your work you will be able one day to gather yourself.
Miguel de Unamuno
Bless you dear Neil, and your work of wonderful image making, writing, and contemplative caminoing.
ReplyDeleteEach day seems to require so much of you. It is truly an inspiring journey.
"From your work you will be able one day to gather yourself."
Michelle W 🧡
Thank you for this wonderful poem! Esther
ReplyDeleteThanks for the poem! And for the photograph of your socks on the balcony railing. Ken
ReplyDeleteA typical albergue should have between 5 and 15 pilgrims a night, I calculate, based on the total length of caminos and an internet factoid that a third of a million people a year walk them. 🤓 Charles
ReplyDeleteBack in the 12th century, the original cathedral was struck by a rocket ship. The astronaut was the sole crew member and survivor. The damaged eastern wall was reconstructed and a new cathedral built around it in the 14th century. That's why the two cathedrals adjoin one another to this day. Once the dazed astronaut recovered, he decided to go on pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela scattering pieces of his broken rocket ship along the way in memory of his failed expedition. When he got to Zamora, he went into a bar and ordered a cafe con leche - he left his helmut outside (as was the rule). No sooner had he done this, than it was stolen by a black robed gypsy wearing a long pointy hat. With the help of the gypsy's father, our hero was reunited with his helmut - and subsequently advised to continue his quest beyond Santiago and throw his helmut into ocean at Muxia. He did so - and to his surprise, and to the astonishment of the locals - the helmut landed right next to the Pedra do Temón (look it up), and then turned to stone itself. To mark this miraculous event, the Archbishop of Salamanca commissioned the finest stone masons to carve the astronaut's image on the cathedral wall. Believe it or not!
ReplyDeleteGold!!
DeleteOutstanding!
DeleteSo much new info to reflect on. Unamuno reminds me of Bonhoeffer -each used faith as a platform to speak truth to power, and paid the ultimate price. 20th century martyrdom. The poem may be seed for a reflection from you on your return Neil? And just sorry not to see photo of the dragon eating ice cream that websites flag in addition to astronaut. Fine contributions from 20th century! Looking forward to more wonderful photos and text about your ad/venture Neil. Thanks KAS
ReplyDeleteHaving slept in a dormitory, with many beds, whilst at boarding school, I have some idea of the lack of privacy. No siestas in those days. Glad you were able to enjoy one. I plan to investigate the astronaut carving. Love and prayers, Elizabeth R.
ReplyDeleteOr maybe it’s a deep sea diver?
DeleteApols to MinM, but I felt credit was due to the artist who also has/d a sense of humour
ReplyDeleteLove the pics and the poem and all the stories. Buen Camino Neil and wishing you some great sleep when you can get it. 🤗
ReplyDeleteTruly, Mike? Carol (either way, great story)
ReplyDelete