32. Aldeanueva del Camino to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra

For days its the heat that’s been the challenge when walking, but this morning it was cold - frio!

The road out of Aldeanueva del Camino led up into the mountains that hem the town in from the north, and as I walked (north!) a cold wind was blowing directly into my face.

After two hours of this, I arrived at the village of Baṉos de Montemayor - 569kms from Santiago. I was hoping to find some breakfast and glad to discover that Bar Carlos was opening in 15 minutes. Sure enough as the church bell chimed eight o’clock, Carlos unbolted the doors of his bar. I was first customer of the day. 

I ordered a cafe con leche y tostada con tomate and sat down. Minutes later, Carlos placed the coffee and a little bowl with puréed tomato on the counter. I went to collect them, but as I walked back to the table I felt all strength drain from my numb wrists and fingers (the cold rendering them completely powerless). The cup and bowl were slipping from my grip and tried in vain to clutch them to my chest. Smash! Coffee, tomato purée and broken crockery all over the floor, and me!!

Understandably, Carlos (who clearly took pride in his bar) was not impressed. He walked around gesticulating with his arms and saying a lot (quite loudly) in Spanish. I didn’t understand but got the gist!! Lo siento, I said (standing in the midst of the mess and still dripping) - I’m sorry. I felt terrible. He ricocheted between mopping and making coffee - with a lot of banging and ‘talk’. I offered to help clean up but he waved me away. I sat down in disgrace and he brought new supplies. 

While I ate, I wrote a message of apology in my phone translation app and showed it to him. By this stage, he was more settled. He read my apology and offer to pay for damages and shook his head and smiled and brushed me on the shoulder. In the end we parted warmly and I left, very much coffee stained and still a bit shaken.

It was another solid climb out of this village, and that was just what I needed to help focus and get going again. 

Pretty soon, I was back in rhythm, strength and pace returning as the sun thawed frozen limbs. The path went up, along the top of the ridge, back down into the valley, and then up and into the next small town.

After this there was a long stretch of flat, where I saw a couple of other pilgrims, and then the pattern repeated itself - up, across, down …

I’m glad I wasn’t in the same field as this guy - he looked a bit more testy than the one I stumbled across the other day.

It’s definitely looking greener as I head north.

Another town - replete with Camino symbols and statue of Santiago.

And then… I was there - Fuenterroble de Salvatierra - 42kms completo!

I’m not sure exactly who runs the albergue here, maybe it’s the local parish community. It’s quite run down but also has a ‘lived in’ and caring feel. There are religious and Camino artifacts covering every surface and wall in a chaotic, eclectic, montage sort of way, and there seem to be endless rooms full of bunk beds. 

Anyway, they welcomed me warmly and gave me a bowl of very hearty soup, and tonight, I believe, there is a community meal. What more could a weary, hungry pilgrim ask for??

Meanwhile, I’ve showered (freezing) and am trying to get all my coffee stained clothes dry and ready for tomorrow.

I’m so glad to have completed this series of long stages, and to still be in one piece. Tomorrow is a more manageable stage and for that I am grateful.

Buen Camino

Neil ❤️👣

PS. Happy birthday to my Mum, who turns 87 today. Thanks mum for being a most avid blog reader, and for all the support you have given me to walk this Camino (as well as the Camino of life). I hope you had a great day.

 ❤️❤️❤️