22. Hinojosa del Duque to Monterrubio de la Serena

It was an early start again this morning and I had everything planned for a quick, quiet (super efficient) getaway. The other pilgrims in the albergue were all catching buses ahead today (when did that become a thing?) and so had no reason to rise early. I on the other hand wanted to get going early so as to beat the heat. I organised my pack last night and placed it in the foyer so I wouldn’t disturb anyone in the morning. All I had to do was get up, sneak out of the dorm, put on my shoes and… vamos! It was all going like clockwork until I went to open the front door. Click, click, ‘oh no’. It was locked from the inside!! #%*# 

Antione (the Belgian guy) had arrived late yesterday arvo (too late to register) and I had given him my key to a. get in and out as he needed, and b. return when he left later in the day. This meant I had to sneak back into the dormitory and find Antione’s smelly boot in the pitch black (because that’s where he’d placed the key so that he wouldn’t forget it). Scrambling around on all fours, I eventually found said ‘smelly boot’ and retrieved the key. I then snuck out again to unlocked the front door, snuck back in again to return the key to the ‘smelly boot’, and snuck out again to leave!!! 🥾

Once on the road (15 minutes later than planned) I caught the last moments of the moon before it set. 

Here I am, stumbling along in the dark eating an apple, which was my breakfast (no bars open this early). 

Gradually the light strengthened and the road opened out in front of me.

The colours on the horizon were wondrous as the sun began to rise.

It really is a magic time of the day to be out walking in the country.

I took my first pause after about two hours of walking - banana break.

Another abandoned railway line. 

As I walked past this dilapidated station in the quiet mid-morning I wondered about life here in former days. The people who met and talked on that station…

Further on, another deserted platform and station, perfect for my second pause - orange break. 

After that the landscape stated to become more hilly again. I wound over a ridge and down into this river valley.

This was the only person I saw on the whole stage, except for two pilgrims on bikes who passed me at my banana break. My constant companions were the birds, who never stoop singing the whole way.

The first two thirds of the walk were glorious - the weather was mild, there was a gentle breeze and all seemed calm. The last ten kilometres were on an asphalt road, which by now was getting hot and which led uphill the whole way to Monterrubio. The most notable happening of this section was that I passed from Andalucía into Extremadura. I also took my third pause - chocolate break!!

I found the albergue at the other end of town, and so far I am the only one here. It’s a really nice one - I have sheets and a towel, access to a washing machine (which is fabulous for getting dusty socks clean), and a pretty comfortable bed - all for 8€.

And speaking of comfortable beds, I should report in on last night. I have to say that adding a board under my mattress made a marginal improvement to the sag of the mattress and the quality of my sleep. Also, I can testify that a sleep apnea machine is not too disruptive and is definitely preferable to loud snoring. It reminded me of visiting patients in ICU on respirators - quite rhythmical and calming. Mind you, I can see why this guy needed one, for it was definitely working hard to get him to breath sometimes!!

Tomorrow is my longest stage yet - 39kms. Thankfully there is a village in between, which means the possibility of refreshment half way. Somehow that seems less daunting, and with clean socks it should be a breeze!!

Buen Camino 

Neil❤️🥾