36. El Cubo… to Zamora

Same, same; different. 

At 5am, my room mate (there were only two of us in the room) exited to pack for the final stage of his Camino. It’s earlier than I’d have risen but it did allow time to triple tape my blister in readiness for another 31kms of pressure. At six, I loaded up to leave and was walking out the front door when noticed that the hospitalero had laid out the makings of breakfast. Ever an opportunist, I delayed departure for some coffee and toast!

As is evident in these first few photos, the landscape I was walking into was reminiscent of what I passed through yesterday - the same broad vistas and big skyline, but there was also variation - more trees and larger rolling hills, for a start.

The climate was similar too - it was still cold, but the wind and dust of yesterday had subsided. It was clearer and calmer.

I could feel ‘el blister’ but the pain wasn’t hampering me as it had yesterday. My pace was back. I was really enjoying this walk in the world.

There were more grapes in evidence today, and the play of morning light on the leaves was glorious to behold.

As I crested this hill, Zamora came into view, still ten+ kilometres away but a reassuring sight nonetheless.

By the time I reached this monument, with 7kms to go,  things had changed quite dramatically. The wind was howling, so strong at times that you had to really lean into it to make progress. The blister was howling too! That path, which for most of the stage and been smooth, hard packed sand had become a corrugated gravel road. It was getting really tough, but Zamora beckoned. There was nothing for it but to press on.

Finally, the rugged gravel road yielded to pavement and the windswept fields to wind-shielding buildings. There were still the grungy industrial outskirts of the city to negotiate, but the final approach along the left bankof the Rio Duero was stunning.

Five years ago, on the Camino Lévante, Keith Castle and I approached this bridge from the other end of town.

Once on it, I joined a path I’d been on before. Same, same; different!

The albergue, at the top of this street, had a sign on the door saying it wouldn’t open for another three hours, so I continued on, into the heart of the old (but very spruced up) city.

The central streets and squares were busy with tourists and school groups. There was a hum of conversation. I wound my way through, vaguely seeking the pasteleria I discovered last time - with delicious vanilla slices!!

I couldn’t find it, so end the end I had to settle for hot chocolate and churros. Oh well, ‘a pilgrim must suffer’!!

The view of the Duero from the other bank.

Apparently, Zamora has more Romanesque churches than any other city in Europe - 26 in all. They’re everywhere, but only one, this one, had a red Vespa parked outside!!

And, to add to this tableaux of amazing sights, (for your viewing displeasure!), a glimpse of el blister!! During the course of the day it has grown and spread - through the toes to the top of my foot. It’s coming to get me!!

Actually, I’ve been massaging it all afternoon with Nivea cream and, hopefully, with a shorter stage tomorrow (only 20kms) it will settle down and begin to heal. So, things are looking up. Indeed, guess what I just found, not 100m from the albergue??!!

Muy bueno!

Buen Camino

Neil💜👣🍰