35. Salamanca to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino

The way out of Salamanca led directly across the Plaza Mayor, which definitely has different moods (vibes) depending on the time of day. It was just after 7.30am when I crossed and people were scurrying in to work. 

It was forecast to be cold, I was keen for sleep, and no one in the dorm needed to rise early, so I decided to start a bit later. My first call after the plaza was to a bar for breakfast. Café Unamuno appeared and seemed the natural choice.

I’m glad people appreciated Unamuno’s in yesterday’s blog. I forgot to mention that it was translated, I think, by Robert Bly.

And speaking of yesterday, thanks to all who offered observations on the astronaut carved into the stone over the cathedral door. If you haven’t read Mike’s explanation, I recommend it. Mike, thank you - most ‘illuminating’!! And thank you to KAS for pointing out that amidst the stone carving there is also a dragon eating an ice cream. I’m disappointed I didn’t see it but did track down a photograph on the internet. So who’s explaining this one?? Mike, the pressure is on!!

The walk out of Salamanca was relatively straight forward…



…. until I got to the intersection flagged by this sign. It was a doozy to cross on foot. Those who know Canberra, imagine trying to walk across Glenloch Interchange and you’ll get the idea - complicated!

Once past this intersection the path led out into vast, open plains. 

It was a big sky and a big relatively featureless landscape.

It was actually a pretty tough stage. It’s hard to see in photos but there was gusty wind blowing all day and it was cold!

The stage was 36kms but it felt endless.

A sculptural piece in the middle of nowhere - out in a field!!??

My walking was hindered by a painful blister that’s developed on the pad of my left foot. As the day wore on it really stung and my pace slowed accordingly. 

The path went on,

and on,

and on.

At this point, I had to make a back track and detour to get around a deep stretch of water over the track. 

And then on,

and on,

and on it went.

Eventually, the houses of El Cubo came into view and I plodded the last few hundred metres to the albergue. It was a relief to get there.

In some ways, I found this one of  hardest stages so far. Tomorrow, I imagine the path to Zamora may be quite similar, though, thankfully, not quite as long as today. 

Meanwhile, there’s some time to rest and the prospect of a shared meal tonight. I’m ravenous, so really looking forward to that. 

🧆🍲

Buen Camino 

Neil 🧡👣