31. Carcaboso to Aldeanueva del Camino

Overall, today’s stage was one of the most beautiful I have walked on the Camino. 

At around 6am, I bid farewell to the two other pilgrims staying in Seṉora Elena’s albergue (also readying to leave) and plunged into the still lit streets of Carcaboso.

The early steps out of town and into the countryside were typical of many stages, but then, after gently rising for a couple of kilometres, the path narrowed to a single ribbon that wound through paddocks scattered with trees and occasional granite boulders, and fenced by dry stone walls. 

On top of this it was a cool, clear morning with only a hint of breeze. 

As the sun rose, the play of light on the grass and trees was stunning. There were cows grazing in these fields, and I’d think for a cow this wasn’t a bad place to be. For a pilgrim it was wonderful!

Often, on recent stages I’ve been able to hear the noise of traffic from some nearby road, but today, for the most part, it felt as if I were in the middle of nowhere - it was really quiet and very pleasant.

This was good, since today, my legs seemed to lack any pace or power.

Halfway through the stage, I came to Cáparra, or what’s left if it. Cáparra was an important town in Roman times. Nowadays, only vestiges of its former glory remain, most outstandingly, this spectacular arch, which pilgrims walk through on their way to Santiago. As Mike pointed out in a comment a few days ago, this is the arch that is stylised on the blocks marking the Via de la Plata route. 

Towards the end of the stage, the last fifteen kilometres or so, I was really flagging. With so many long stages this past week it’s not surprising!!

The last ten kilometres brought me back towards civilisation and involved the inevitable negotiating of more major roads and highways. Parts of the track were still picturesque, but much of it was more ‘industrial’ so to speak. 

I was very glad when, after eight hours of walking, the sign announcing Aldeanueva del Camino came into view. By this stage of the day the streets were deserted, papers and tin cans were being blown about, and it looked like a ghost town - ‘siesta enveloped’ that’s for sure!! The albergue was locked and no one was answering the phone number posted on the door. 

I wandered around somewhat forlornly looking for a lead. Then, out of nowhere, a Mercedes drove into my street and pulled up beside me. The driver opened his window and said there was one bar open on the other end of town and suggested I go there for some food (he must have sensed my growing despondency). 

I took his advice, and inside that dead looking bar was heaving! The waiter told me they had no spare table for me but as I was walking out a guy signaled that I could share his table. He turned out to be an Italian pilgrim - Roberto. We struggled to communicate with his limited English and my non-existent Italian, but with Google translate and much gesturing we managed to get there. He also had another number for the albergue, which he called. Long story short, I am in, and very thankful for how things unfolded.

I have one more massive stage tomorrow (42km with close to 800m of ascending) and then things settle to a more sustainable pace. My goal tonight is to rest and prepare as best as I can, and then tomorrow … 

Do it all again!! 😅😅😅

Buen Camino 

Neil💚🐾 🐾🐾🐾🐾🐾🐾🐾🐾