30. Caṉaveral to Carcaboso

I slept like the dead last night. It was the first night on Camino I have ever slept right through. I don’t think I even turned over!!

I’ll get into today, but before that, a note about last night. In true Spanish town fashion, the ‘siesta enveloped’ township of Caṉaveral eventually opened its doors and yielded a population. This happened at about eight o’clock and around that time, I walked up share share dinner at the closest bar with Manuel (Switzerland), Colette (Netherlands) and Heyde (Germany). The bar turned out to be very lively, filled with noisy kids having a party. Nevertheless, it served good tucker for famished pilgrims and while we ate we shared in rich and ranging conversation. 

Back to today…

When I opened my eyes this morning the light was on in the albergue and a few pilgrims were making half hearted attempts to get going. I think everyone was trashed after yesterday’s efforts, no matter how far they walked or rode! the clock said 6am, so I stumbled out of bed, stuffed lose bits and pieces into my pack, and staggered out on to the street - slowly!

As the light strengthened, I left the road and found myself climbing into a pine forest.

Down the other side, the pines were replaced by oaks and then cork trees. At one point, I entered a paddock in which a herd of black cows were grazing. That was fine until I realised that the big one in front of me was a bull!! It was too late to run but thankfully he seemed more interested in feeding than charging - perhaps wearied from nocturnal pursuits!! I didn’t hang around to take a photo, I didn’t want to push my luck, but this cow seemed willing enough to hers taken.

About two hours into the walk I came across this sign to Grimaldo, a town just off route. The siren call of a bar and the promise of breakfast was too much, so I took it.

The path up was somewhat contorted and when I got there the bar was closed. 👎👎👎

Back I trudged to the main track, seeking to maintain equilibrium despite having added two extra kilometres to the stage (now 40kms) for no gain. The next bar would be in Galisteo, a mere four hours away - plenty of time to contemplate how the Camino offers wonderful lessons in delayed gratification!!

Thankfully it was a gentle and peaceful route for the rest of the morning.

Gradually, I drew closer to Galisteo, and as I did, I sensed a greening in the landscape - the beginnings of the effect of a more Atlantic influence climate perhaps.



Galisteo is an old walled town. Surely, I think, it must have an open bar!!??

Bingo!

One very cold beer, two tostadas con tomate, and a descafinado con leche later, I was back on the trail - around the town wall, across a Roman bridge, and on to the last 10 kilometre stretch to Carcaboso.

That stretch turned out to be all on roads.

It was a demanding slog in the heat and against a strong headwind, but two hours later I was checking in to the albergue in Carcaboso run by Seṉora Elena.

There’s nothing flash about this town or the albergue but it feels good to be here. I’m showered and washed and just have to wait a few hours for the kitchen to open so can get some dinner. 

Tomorrow, is another big stage to Aldeanueva del Camino - 38kms. There are no services along the way and there are some hills to climb so I’ll need to be well supplied. Thankfully, the supermarket is open!!

Buen Camino

Neil🧡👣