As expected it was a big day. I crept out of the albergue early, leaving the guys on bikes to sleep in. I was keen to get some kilometres under my belt before the sun rose and the temperature got too hot. I was told that there was a bar that opened early in Cáceres and that served churros. I thought that would give me an energy boost for the day but alas I couldn’t find it, so I just kept going - out of town, up and over a pretty steep hill, and on to Casar de Cáceres.
As the dawn broke I discovered that there were two walkers in front of me.
I followed them all the way to Casar de Cáceres, never quite catching them.
Once there, I ducked into the nearest open bar to get some breakfast. Now there were only 35kms to go and I settled into the rhythm of the day - walking for roughly two hours at a time and then pausing for a short rest and snack.
About half way through, I caught up with another pilgrim, Peter (not in the picture!), who comes from England but has lived in Spain for the past 38 years. We walked and talked together for a time.
Eventually, I came to the huge reservoir that was a feature of today’s stage and would take a long time to walk around. It reminded me of Lake Eucumbene in the Snowy Mountains.
When, finally, the reservoir was in the rear view there was still another ten or twelve kilometres to walk. It was hot and windy too. At this stage it was better not to think about it and just put one foot in front of the other.
Eventually, Caṉeveral came into view. That was promising, but I have to say it was one of those towns that took forever to get to!! I passed another pilgrim in this section, Colette, a women from the Netherlands. Later, I bumped into her at the bar and she told me of being harassed by a guy in a 4x4 back on the day when she was walking through that Parque Natural (out of Mérida). It sounded really traumatic and has taken some nerve for her to keep walking. I haven’t heard much of this sort of thing happening but it is really sad. The Camino association and the police are working hard to monitor incidents like this but it is isolated out here and perhaps that increases the risk.
I’m with a complete new set of pilgrim’s tonight, having left all the others behind - a mix of cyclists and walkers. There are about eight of us here, including two other Australians. People seemed tired (understandably) and standoffish at first but as the after has worn on I have had a couple of nice conversations. I imagine we’ll all be searching for a meal when finally some cafe or restaurant opens, so maybe there’ll be a chance to talk more then. I notice that everyone seems to be waddling this afternoon, as if we’ve all just got off a horse!! I think some stretching is in order.
Tomorrow, I hope to walk to Carcaboso, thirty eight kilometres, not as much as today but still a decent distance. I feel weary but not with any major aches of pains. Hopefully, with a good night’s rest I’ll be ready to go.
As the dawn broke I discovered that there were two walkers in front of me.
I followed them all the way to Casar de Cáceres, never quite catching them.
Once there, I ducked into the nearest open bar to get some breakfast. Now there were only 35kms to go and I settled into the rhythm of the day - walking for roughly two hours at a time and then pausing for a short rest and snack.
About half way through, I caught up with another pilgrim, Peter (not in the picture!), who comes from England but has lived in Spain for the past 38 years. We walked and talked together for a time.
Eventually, I came to the huge reservoir that was a feature of today’s stage and would take a long time to walk around. It reminded me of Lake Eucumbene in the Snowy Mountains.
Two significant rivers supply the water for this ‘embalse’ and we pilgrims had to cross both of them.
When, finally, the reservoir was in the rear view there was still another ten or twelve kilometres to walk. It was hot and windy too. At this stage it was better not to think about it and just put one foot in front of the other.
Eventually, Caṉeveral came into view. That was promising, but I have to say it was one of those towns that took forever to get to!! I passed another pilgrim in this section, Colette, a women from the Netherlands. Later, I bumped into her at the bar and she told me of being harassed by a guy in a 4x4 back on the day when she was walking through that Parque Natural (out of Mérida). It sounded really traumatic and has taken some nerve for her to keep walking. I haven’t heard much of this sort of thing happening but it is really sad. The Camino association and the police are working hard to monitor incidents like this but it is isolated out here and perhaps that increases the risk.
Finally, I crossed this little Roman bridge and from here it was just another kilometre or so up the hill to the town.
I’m with a complete new set of pilgrim’s tonight, having left all the others behind - a mix of cyclists and walkers. There are about eight of us here, including two other Australians. People seemed tired (understandably) and standoffish at first but as the after has worn on I have had a couple of nice conversations. I imagine we’ll all be searching for a meal when finally some cafe or restaurant opens, so maybe there’ll be a chance to talk more then. I notice that everyone seems to be waddling this afternoon, as if we’ve all just got off a horse!! I think some stretching is in order.
Tomorrow, I hope to walk to Carcaboso, thirty eight kilometres, not as much as today but still a decent distance. I feel weary but not with any major aches of pains. Hopefully, with a good night’s rest I’ll be ready to go.
Buen camino
Neil🧡👣
Good effort. The countryside does look very Wide Brown Land. Right down to the 4x4 - remember the scene from the movie “Jindabyne”?
ReplyDeleteOuch! My feet and legs hurt just reading this. I am in awe of your perseverance and good humour. Buon camino! M
ReplyDeleteWhat a determined trek, hats off mate - I can just imagine you seeing that little, white hillside village appearing in the distance after the day you had had - forget the Romana de Calzada, just get me there- step by step - then finally uphill as the only human visible in the deserted, siesta enveloped streets, lined with closed up white houses . . . phew
ReplyDeleteGreat line “siesta enveloped streets”! Conjures up the image vividly. Charles
ReplyDeleteWhat a mighty effort and more tomorrow. You are amazing. Love and prayers, Elizabeth R.
ReplyDeleteThe Roman bridge and stone wall are all that gives away a different history… landscape and colour, dam, animal, thistle and fence reminiscent of our own vast ‘settled’ country. I hope there was some good Tucker and company within those blue winged doors? ❤️👣 Deb
ReplyDeleteSuch a long day! Ken
ReplyDeleteGee, long hard day - impressed your fingers can manage to tap. I’d have been back in that lake still. KAS
ReplyDelete