39. Granja de Moreruela to Tábara

The beds were comfortable and the dormitory was warm and relatively quiet last night, and I had a great sleep. 

Despite an alarm going off at 5am(?), I was the first person to leave at 6.30. It was 26km stage and very enjoyable.

It was freezing to begin but did warm slowly as the morning progressed. The breeze also increased, but mostly from the side or behind (much easier to cope with than a headwind). I’m glad to read that higher minimum and maximum temperatures are forecast for the next few days, though there is the possibly of some rain as well.

As I watched the eastern sky glow increasingly red, I was reminded of a line from a song we sing at Benedictus (Awake, Awake to Love and Work), written by war chaplain and poet, Geoffrey Studdert Kennedy: ‘See how the giant sun soars up, great lord of years and days’…

Early on the landscape resembled yesterday’s, but after about eight kilometres the path dipped and wound into a thickly wooded gorge.

In the heart of the gorge there was a significant embalse (reservoir), which I crossed on a grand old stone bridge, and then walked beside for a kilometre or so.

It was a rugged and beautiful track and I savoured every moment. I should add that my blister is barely recognisable now and that I hope not even to have to tape it tomorrow.

I remember this tree from five years ago, when I walked this stage with Keith on the Camino Levánte. I have photos of both of us walking past it, so what else to do but take a selfie?!

Eventually, the path led up out of the gorge and onto another broad plain - still wooded for a time, and then back to open fields.

Me and my arrow!

There were more long straight stretches to walk but after the delights of the gorge these weren’t too onerous.

This is the first distance marker I’ve seen for days - 348kms to Santiago. This means, that from Tábara it’s about 450kms to Fisterra. After having already walked more than a thousand kilometres this feels slightly daunting!! Hopefully, with a rest this afternoon, it will seem less so tomorrow. Also, it helps me to focus on the next steps and stage rather than thinking too much about the whole distance. 

I must say, it’s bemusing that they measure these distances to the millimetre - 348.783 really??!!

I managed to score some breakfast in a little town about 18kms into the stage. And from there if was under 10kms to Tábara.

I’m in the albergue I stayed in five years ago, run (then) by José. It was a very homely place with a communal meal and breakfast.

Since then, they’ve added a new wing with single beds and a nice view of the town. 

I was first in, so had first choice of bed, and first use of the shower and outside washing tub for clothes - a luxury when it comes to albergue living. 

[Fyi, bed choice is dictated by a few factors. 1) lower bunk if possible so as not to have to climb up and down every time you get up, 2) not too close to the door so that you are disturbed every time someone shuffles past to the toilet with their torch on, 3) near a power point for charging your phone overnight, and 4) space for you pack, 5) less squeaky and saggy, and 6) aesthetic appeal (eg) near a window.]

Domestic chores done, I wandered down into the town, joining Fernando (Portugal) for a menu del dia in his Hostal. Then, back to the albergue to rest, read, blog, and plan for tomorrow’s stage.

Finally, thanks to the kindness of our hospitaleros, José and Manolo, we shared a delicious meal in the albergue - our nationalities included Austrian, German, Irish, American, Spanish and Australian. It’s a special thing that happens on Camino.

Buen Camino 

Neil💚👣