26. Torrefresneda to Mérida

It was a relief that none of today’s stage involved walking on the main road. For quite some time, I travelled beside it, occasionally crossing over or under, but never actually on it.

There were two small towns between Torrefresneda and Mérida and I ate in both of them - first breakfast and second breakfast! This church in Trujillanos, the second of the villages, had at least ten stork nests on its roof - clearly space is at a premium on the stork Camino!!

After, Trujillanos the path left the side of the highway and cut across country to Mérida. By this time the temperature was really hotting up.

Drawing near to the edge of the city, I passed through piles of rubble and refuse dumped beside the road - some of which would make an interesting installation!

Mérida started out as an ancient Roman outpost, it is a World Heritage listed city today, and soon enough bits and pieces of Roman ruin started appearing.

The closer I came to the centre, the busier things became.

In the middle of Mérida, on the bank of the Rio Guardiana, the Mozárabe way swings almost due north and merges with the Camino via de la Plata (which began almost 200kms further south at Sevilla). 

This, I assume is the last time I will see this sign, from here on everything will be VdlP.

From this point, it was a short walk along the river, 

past another Roman bridge (only joking) to the Municiple albergue.  

When I arrived, there was a queue of pilgrims being signed in, including a number on bikes (electric bikes!!). Antione was also there, smiling as always, and I have since seen a number of others that I’d connected with on the way. The dormitory itself has eight sets of double bunks and they are all occupied. After experiencing relatively few pilgrims on the Mozárab Way this is all a bit confronting - prepare for an increase in remarks about snoring and rustling bags!!

After, showering and washing clothes, I went out for a menu del dia with Antoine, Rachel (an English pilgrim that had been on the Mozárab way but whom I had never met) and a Spanish guy called Pedro, who is finishing here. 

A few moments ago, I had a farewell call with Sarah who begins her time of silence tonight. She sent some photos and a message, so I’ll share these to close. 

Her room (cell) for the next month.

The old chapel outside her window (more or less).

And these were taken by Fr Laurence in the grounds of Bonnevaux. Is she preaching to the birds in the last one ??? St Sarah of Bonnevaux!!!

And, her message:

‘This evening, I enter into my 30-day silent retreat and I’m feeling so grateful for this opportunity. The retreat I led last week here at Bonnevaux was a good preparation for moving into a deeper silence, and I’ve had time to settle into my rooms (a bedroom and study, both looking out onto trees, labyrinth and beautiful stone chapel). The rhythm of community prayer here feels very grounding - early meditation at 7am and 3 more times of prayer and meditation through the day - morning, middle and evening. There are places to sit and walk and be, and good, simple food to share. Already I have a sense of rest and quietness and listening. Who knows exactly what this time will bring or ask, but I’m thankful for it and I hope that it bears fruit for Benedictus and on other ways too. I’m thankful too for the messages of support and encouragement I’ve received, and for all who are enabling me to take this time. Thank you!’ 

🙏💚 Sarah

Buen Camino

Neil 💚👣