23. Monterrubio de la Serena to Campanario

Last night, I had the albergue to myself. Tonight, I am in Campanario’s Refugio de Peregrines en el Poideportivo Municipal (the municipal pilgrim refuge in the local sports complex) with those four mysterious pilgrims from two days ago. In fact, as I write, Antione has just staggered in, so now there are six of us packed into these fairly humble digs - it’s a full house. 

I was up early again this morning and I can happily report that I was able to walk straight out the front door - no key issues, no time delays!! The full moon was setting and the town was still sleeping as left Monterrubio.

All Aussies will recognise what kind of tree this is - even in the dark they are distinctive.

The first eleven kilometres were on a quiet asphalt road. I walked between a mix of olive groves (they’re back!) and paddocks with scattered oaks. To get me in the zone for a long stage I played a few songs from the soundtrack to The Way.

Eventually I hit gravel, and the rest of the stage was pretty easy under foot.

Eighteen kilometres in, I entered the town of Castuera, where I paused for some breakfast. (This is where my companions in the Refugio walked from.) The bougainvillea is stunned at the moment and it looked wonderful set against the old stone church.

This is also the town where Esther and Karsten were planning to end their stage, so last night we said our farewells. I’ve appreciated their company in the evenings this past week.

Walking out of Castuera, I came across this row of trees with crocheted jackets. I could understand the symbolism of this one but I’m intrigued as to why this was done. 

The plot thickens!!??

‘Hey girls, check out this crazy pilgrim. Who’d walk forty kilometres on a day like today?? This guy is nuts!! Baa!!’

 

Flowering prickly pear. Wow!!

The further I walked the more the country flattened. 

Either I’m losing it or these guys are flying in circles! 

Or zig zagging!

A quarry there’s a lot of rock in Spain, a lot!!

I was very tempted to have a wade in this beautiful little pond but again I resisted - no shade.

What can I say??

And, finally, after almost seven hours of walking, Campanario appeared. It’s a low lying village, but bigger than it looks here. 

Overall, it was a great stage. It wasn’t too hot and it wasn’t so hard - thanks in part to a softish gravel path for most of the way. It took a while to find the Refugio and get in, but eventually I did, and here I am, none too worse for wear. 

I was anticipating another long stage tomorrow but it looks like I can divide the next three days into Mérida into stages of more or less equal length, ca 25kms. I think that’s what I’ll do, but who knows, the Camino may have other ideas. Stay tuned…

Buen Camino

Neil🧡👣🐑

PS. I heard briefly from Sarah and the retreat she is leading has started well. It’s a very responsive group, she said.

PPS. Thank you to those who are concerned about my food and water intake. I assure you that I am eating and drinking well and am feeling remarkably good considering the heat and distances of the past few days. Thankfully I have no blisters and have had no need of ibuprofen either. 

PPPS. I’ve just found out that one of the mysterious four pilgrims is an 89 year old French lady. She is walking her twenty first Camino and as far as I’m concerned, if she needs to take a bus for the longer stages, so she should. Imagine putting up with albergue life at that age!! Mum, are you still keen???